The best way to contact me is via social media as there is no shop phone.

Facebook: Max Cantdrive (Morin) Instagram: rst_speed_haus
Email: maxmorin@comcast.net

The hourly rate at the shop is a competitive $150/hour for diagnostic and labor.

The COBB V3 Accessport is always my #1 choice for any supported Ecoboost-powered vehicle.

Justin Brasil @ Freektune provides the software calibrations for my personal vehicles and most of my client builds in the shop.

Due to the diligence of accurate measurements, machine work, and assembly cleanliness required, RST Speed Haus does not build forged engines to maintain the highest level of quality for clientele. Forged long block (recommended) and short block builds are outsourced from other Ecoboost machine shops/builders who can provide the best engine
assembly program with a warranty. Engineered Motorsport Solutions (TN),
Speed Perf6rmanc3 (NJ), and TunePlus Inc. (MN) have all had their engines installed here over the years with great success.

This determined value is the minimum price that manufacturers allow
retailers to advertise their products for online, which gives all retailers an equal playing field to selling parts. If you don’t see a
part you’re looking for on the site or looking to have something
price-matched, please contact me!

Primary: Vas Giannopoulos – Vas Hauling – 203.503.7325

Secondary: Jonathan Rodriguez – RTS Transportation Services - 603.321.2843

For stock tune cars: OEM Motorcraft spark plugs and gap

For aftermarket tunes: NGK6510 or Brisk RR12S (tuner preference)

.026” for stock engines

.024” for stock engines with big turbo and ethanol mix .018-.022” for high boost applications (30-35+ psi)

Fiesta ST – 375whp

Focus ST – 410whp

Focus RS – 430whp

Fiesta ST – Turbo Technics S280/S290 or WORFab Xona Rotor turbo Kit

Focus ST – ATP Garrett GTX or ATP Garrett G-Series

Focus RS – Precision NX2, ETS Garrett GTX Gen2, or Tune+ PTE turbo Kit

XDI/Nostrum high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) and injectors if possible, as this is the most efficient fueling solution for meeting a majority of horsepower goals. Auxiliary fueling/port injection can be necessary for certain builds with higher horsepower goals but due to the number of variables that could lead to engine failure, upgraded direct injection is suggested especially for those looking to do it yourself. Water/methanol injection kits are always a last resort as it’s not as consistent or as accurate type of system as the other options mentioned
above.

Fiesta ST – Whoosh Stage 3/3R with OEM dual-mass flywheel ONLY (street/race)

Focus ST – ACT organic (street), ACT 6-puck (street/race), or Clutchmasters 725 (drag race)

Focus RS – Xclutch Twin organic/ceramic (street/race) or Clutchmasters 725 (drag race)

The Fiesta ST, Focus ST, and Focus RS all use different weight engine oils. I always suggest using a full synthetic from Motul, Amsoil, Castrol, Pennzoil, or Motorcraft with the viscosity written on the oil cap (for stock engines) or the viscosity recommended by the builder of
your engine.

Due to contrary belief, a vacuum bleeder is my suggested method to
bleed instead of reverse bleeding. Fill the reservoir as necessary, then, with the pedal up (not depressed), bleed the clutch for 15 seconds, close the bleeder, push the pedal 10 times, and repeat while topping off the fluid level as necessary. Repeat this procedure 3-4
times. Test drive the vehicle and repeat if needed. If you think there may be air in the system, the clutch will engage very low to the floor
(Comp twin disk in FoST/FoRS and Whoosh Stage 3/3R do this normally) and the pedal will not return to the “up” position after it is pressed and
released quickly.

Timing belt replacement is necessary in the 1.6L Ecoboost engine and it does have a service interval. Ideally between 100-150k this service
should be performed, and a host of other components are suggested to be replaced simultaneously. These parts include but are not limited to:
Timing belt, timing belt tensioner, waterpump, idler pulley, serpentine belt tensioner, serpentine belt, passenger-side motor mount, thermostat housing, crankshaft pulley bolt, and coolant.

Due to high positive crankcase ventilation pressure in the Ecoboost 2.0/2.3L engines, oil may not sufficiently be returning to the block through the turbo oil drain tube. This backpressure/restriction causes oil to leak through the turbocharger internal seal, pushing it out of the clamp where the turbine housing meets the CHRA. A potential remedy is to install a Radium PCV plate (20-0327-01), a Radium PCV catch can
(20-0315-FL), and a UPR check valve (5044-10). In the Radium PCV plate kit, the snap ring and the valve inside of the fitting must be removed
before being installed into the plate. Install the PCV plate, all hoses, and the catch can, then cut the hose running from the catch can to the manifold in half. Install the UPR check valve here, with the arrow
pointing towards the intake manifold. If these steps have been taken and the concern persists, you have two choices. You can remove the line
going from the catch can to the manifold, plug the manifold, and vent the now open fitting of the can to atmosphere. Alternatively, you can
remove the 2nd fitting of the PCV plate, and run this to a catch can that is vented to atmosphere. If none of these resolve the concern, the
turbo should be rebuilt/replaced as damage has likely already occurred to the turbocharger.

Fiesta ST – Failed slave + master cylinders, broken exhaust manifold
studs, seized rear brake pins, rusted front and rear crash bars, low-side fuel pressure sensor, and bad alternator.

Focus ST –
E-brake cables, failed ringland(s), cracked cylinder head, pop-outs/grinds of transmission, and leaking heater core hoses.

Focus RS – Coolant intrusion/engine failure, E-brake cables, FRP sensor, and bad catalytic converter (P0420).

LKQ is a leading provider of salvaged OEM parts that have an extensive inventory of used components for most vehicles nation-wide. Engines directly from a Focus ST are quite expensive, but there are
other models that came with a compatible engine. These engines from other models are substantially more affordable but a warranty will not
be available if the engine is going into a car that doesn’t match the model the engine was pulled from. Not all 2.0 Ecoboost engines are the
same however, you will need an engine with the 8th digit of the 17-digit VIN from the car it was removed from to be a 9 which stands for “turbo”
in this case. It will need to be a single-scroll version of this engine (the twinscroll longblock version is not a direct “drop-in”). They are
available in the early-mid teen model year Focus, MKZ, Escape, etc.